Bargetto Winery

From Lodi, one of the oldest growing regions continually planted to vines in California, comes this righteous tribute to one of the old field-blend components of days gone by: Carignane. The Rauser Vineyard, where these now 98 year old vines are planted, sits on the banks of the Mokelumne River. The Bargetto’s tell me that the head-pruned ancient vines are so gnarled and worn, they look like they’ve already been through 100 harvests. I sincerely hope they make it long into their next century. This is a very earthy smelling wine, redolent of beets and dusty clay and loam. There are hints of sun-dried tomatoes and herbs, and something dark and mysterious lurking beneath the surface. Maybe it’s the Zinfandel, of which there is 24 percent

Arguably, this is young for a wine of this kind from Lodi, but after a half an hour of air time, it really opens up nicely. The flavors lean to the lean, rather than to the rich, expressing really delightful experiences of cranberry, beets, Italian plum tomatoes, and even sweet potatoes. Yep, I’ve never found that flavor in a wine before, but this wine is not typical in any way. After these more vegetal flavors make their appearance, the mulberries and licorice flavors take over, delivering a very balanced set of fruits and vegetables: an interesting twist on the V8 fusion concept. It’s surprisingly low in alcohol (13 percent), and yet, the flavors are all there, and they are all very fun and delicious at the same time. What a really great and versatile food wine. And down to earth, in a most honest and respectable way.

Reviewed August 19, 2007 by Laura Ness.

Other Awards & Accolades

Gold Medal, Best of Class - Lodi - 2007 California State Fair