Steven Kent Winery

The fruit for this wine comes from Steven Mirassou’s partner Mike Ghielmetti’s vineyard in Livermore, hence it qualifies as “estate.” From the vineyard’s description, it sounds like the ultimate candy store of grape varieties, enough to make a winemaker’s knees go positively weak. Whenever I see Sauvignon Blanc from Livermore or any other warmish climate, I cringe, fearing a fat, over the top expression that reeks more of Rousanne than Sauvignon.

Fear not with this wine. This fruit was most certainly picked at the peak of perfection. The color is pale as a spring day: it makes you feel cool and refreshed just looking at it. Then stick your nose deep in the glass for a true blast of zest that will clear your nasal passages forthwith. The aromas are a big Wow! You’d think you were smelling New Zealand: it’s all gooseberries, grass, citrus zest, green apple and yes, a bit of that eau de feline. On the palate, it’s like biting into a Pippin or Granny Smith apple that’s been soaking in lime and grapefruit. There’s a hint of plump green fig, which is delightful. The lovely citrus flavors wake up every taste bud and put them on high alert for the surprise kick this wine has in store. Suddenly, you get a flood of tree-ripened peach, then a little more grapefruit, and then, voila! The finish is pure glorious nectarine that keeps coming on like gangbusters. This is one of the best SB’s I’ve ever had from Livermore or anywhere in California, for that matter. Be sure to serve this one well-chilled, and get ready for a truly rewarding experience. Very limited. Don’t wait on this one.

(Alc: 14.7%, Retail: $24)

Reviewed July 25, 2006 by Laura Ness.