Harrington Winery

There’s definitely some good Pinot being made over at Harrington. Every bottling seems to be individual and expressive of its origin - and that is what it’s really all about when you’re talking about Pinot.

Here’s yet another wine from Bryan Harrington that actually looks like, smells like, and tastes like Pinot Noir. This bottling of just 154 cases comes from the aptly named Gap’s Crown vineyard, where the Pinot grapes grow on low vigor rocky soils in a location that is exposed to cool Pacific winds and fog that penetrate the land via the Petaluma Gap.

The translucent ruby color reflects its cool Sonoma Coast origin, as does the fresh strawberry and cherry fruit. Particularly pleasing, and absent from many Pinots today, is a subtle barnyard aroma, which is nicely framed by other non-grapey notes like delicate oak vanilla and leather. It’s an attractive and alluring nose, the kind that makes people fall in love with the variety. In the mouth, it gets even better, again showcasing its cool climate origin with refreshing acidity (TA: .65, pH: 3.49). On the palate, the wine is just medium bodied, but it fills the mouth with flavors that mirror the nose, and a very delicate tannic framework, finishing with a slight wash of sweet fruitiness.

Here’s a Pinot specialist destined for cult status, but thankfully, to this point, Harrington has gone largely unnoticed by the most influential critics…shhhhh (sorry Bryan). At least for now, you can still get these top flight California Pinots.

Reviewed April 23, 2008 by Adam Dial.