Harrington Winery

On a sunny late winter weekend afternoon, I took a drive up to Wild Horse Valley. The serenity of this remote upland valley is a far cry from the hustle and bustle of the valley floor, where Hwy 29 is typically jammed bumper to bumper with wine country visitors, eager to taste the next blockbuster Cab. Up here, some 1,400-feet above the city of Napa, there’re aren’t a lot of vineyards to see, but there are some remarkable Pinots being grown in this off-the-beaten-path location.

Serendipitously later that same day, I tasted Harrington Winery’s Pinot Noir bottling from Wild Horse Valley, and in an appealing way, the character of this wine reminded me of this unassuming parcel of the very assuming Napa Valley.

Pale translucent purple-pink in color with ruby hues at margin, the wine is obviously unfiltered with a slight turbidity and early tartrate crystal formation – good signs of minimal manipulation in the making of this wine. An outstanding Pinot nose is highlighted by aromas of fresh fermentation with leesy notes. No jamminess here, just fresh strawberry and violet perfume with cedary notes. From appearance to palate, it is evident that there was no attempt to extract excessive color and concentration from the delicate Wild Horse Valley fruit, and the wine is all the better for it. 14.4 percent alcohol does not register anywhere on the nose, palate or finish. A tight and focused acid core with mineral notes and velvety tannins contribute to the overall impression of finesse. The wine finishes clean and long with no cloying jammy fruit or alcoholic heat.

Bravo to Bryan Harrington for putting little known Wild Horse Valley appellation clearly on the label, distinguishing this wine’s unique origin.

Reviewed April 23, 2008 by Adam Dial.