Dr. Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars

Dr. Konstantin Frank pioneered winegrowing based on classic European Vitis vinifera varieties in New York State. Three generations of Franks – Konstantin, son Willy, and now grandson Fred – have taken their turn as leaders in the advancement of the wine industry in the Finger Lakes region. 45 years after opening his winery on Keuka Lake, Dr. Konstantin Frank’s legacy is a strong as ever, and his singular mission to produce the finest wines from the best European varieties is still at the heart of everything that happens at Dr. Frank Wine Cellars.

In a recent Appellation America tasting to select some standout examples of Finger Lakes Pinot Noir – a variety that still does not have a solid foothold in the region – it was not a complete surprise to find a Dr. Frank wine among the leaders.

With the 2005 Pinot Noir, a forward – somewhat boisterous – primary fruit nose is your introduction. The aromatic profile is almost Gamay-like and hints of at least partial carbonic/whole berry fermentation (though the technical notes make no indication of this). The dark fruit aromas with a bit of tar and vanilla (from 10 months in French oak) carry through to a palate where they glide along unobstructed by heavy tannins. In fact, the tannins are very light and actually more silky in texture than grippy. This all works well to allow tart sour cherry, blackberry, cranberry, and citrus flavors to mingle supported by a spike of pithy bitterness and healthy chord of acidity at the end. A lively and very pleasing wine for immediate enjoyment, if not built for long-term cellaring.

Reviewed June 4, 2007 by Adam Dial.