Sobon Estate

Old vine Zinfandels are one of the sublime pleasures of life – feeling with each drop, the history of that vineyard and the aged richness of the land. Sobon Estate owner Lee Sobon makes an old vine Zinfandel from his estate grapes, blending grapes from 70-year-old vines with fruit from younger vines, including 15-year-old Primitivo grapes.

The 2005 Sobon Estate Amador County Old Vines Zinfandel is a satisfying expression of this type: it has a nose you want to dive into, and it hits every taste bud in the mouth. It has flavor notes of dark plum and blueberry with a little bit of earthiness and ash, a classic Amador County note owing to the decomposed granite soil in the appellation. There is also a dark chocolate, Mexican Mole note that Sobon attributes to the small amounts of Grenache and Sangiovese in the blend.

About one third of Sobon Estate’s total 15,000 case production is the old vines Zinfandel wine. Zinfandel is a signature grape of the appellation, and in Sobon’s vineyards, it grows well at 1,800-2,000 feet elevation. “Our growing area is similar to Paso Robles and St. Helena. We have no morning fog but we have the same heat,” explains Sobon. “We get warm early in the morning but avoid the blistering afternoon heat. It gives us a more gradual ripening time which develops the silky, lush flavors and softer tannins.” For under $15 this wine is a great buy!

Reviewed April 23, 2007 by Jean Deitz Sexton.