Pinder Winery

Santa Lucia Highlands boasts some of the highest scoring (but who cares) Pinots on the Planet Spectator these days. And some of them are things of wonder. Many of the Pinots from this region, however, are Pinot Drag Queens. Really, no offense is meant: I love drag queens. But in this sense, I mean they smell more like Syrah than Pinot, and fail to exhibit much, if any varietal character. They tend to be more muscular and deep-voiced than Pinot should be, at least to my taste. This Pinot from Pinder borders on that, but gracefully saves itself with enough acidity and litheness.

Typical of SLH Pinots, the color is rich and raspberry velvet like the ropes of an old-fashioned theatre. The earthy, rich raspberry cocoa nose is offset by a bit of burnt rubber and some heat. This is getting up there in alcohol for a Pinot (14.4%). The palate pleases with nice dark cherry milk chocolate, some loganberries, black mission figs and a bit of black pepper. The hint of kalmata olives on the figgy pudding finish makes this an interesting Pinot. It does have decent acidity, and it might be best put away in a nice cool cellar for a while. It is for sure not a Summer Pinot, but instead a Winter Pinot, when it can be enjoyed with slow-cooked Mediterranean lamb or pork dishes that incorporate dried winter fruits, olives and exotic spices – yum!!

Reviewed June 21, 2006 by Laura Ness.