Calera Wine Company

Calera founder Josh Jensen spent a couple of harvests in Burgundy and became convinced that limestone soils were necessary for growing great Pinot Noir. Limestone isn’t all that common in California, but Jensen found what he was looking for in the Gavilan Mountains between Monterey and San Benito counties. He named his vineyard and winery Calera, the Spanish word for limekiln; limestone had been quarried from the property a century earlier, and there was a well-preserved limekiln remaining on the property. (That kiln is depicted on the Calera labels.)

The 4.8 acre Selleck Vineyard was one of the first that Jensen planted, in 1975. It’s a rocky south/southwest-facing slope and typically yields Calera’s most concentrated fruit. The 2004 is a magnificent example, brimming with ripe, spicy raspberry, cherry and strawberry fruit, accented by a very slight leafy note and some lovely spice. Calera uses whole-cluster fermentation, and the wines usually are fairly long-lived. Only a small amount of the Selleck is produced – in 2004, it was 324 cases – and the price is a lofty $75 a bottle. But for a true Pinot aficionado, it’s worth seeking out.

Reviewed September 19, 2007 by Laurie Daniel.