Navarro Vineyards

Those who follow the small, remote Navarro Vineyards know that it is famed for Gewurztraminer, late harvest Riesling, Pinot Gris and even a dry Muscat. But insiders know that the best wine, year to year, from this small project is an unassuming-when-young Pinot Noir.

Anderson Valley is a cool region, evidenced by the fact that Gewurztraminer and Riesling do brilliantly here. So does Pinot Noir, but it usually makes a wine that lacks the dramatic aroma and deep concentration seen elsewhere in California, such as the Russian River, Santa Lucia Highlands or Santa Rita hills. But what is clear is that Anderson Valley Pinots have the staying power some of the wines from other regions lack. And in this mode, the wines often don’t show as dramatically as do wines from other regions.

Navarro’s wines seem to age slowly and are best at age eight to ten years. This wine is a classic example. The aroma is bright with cherry hints in the nose along with blueberry and subtle spices. The mid-palate is succulent and medium-full and there are no oak overtones to detract from the fruit. This is a classic richly fruity red that will age nicely for a few years. It is largely available from the winery or in a few California restaurants.

Reviewed August 3, 2007 by Dan Berger.