Lions Peak Vineyards

The experience of this wine starts out with an incredibly eye-catching label, from a painting called “Beauty and Flowers,” by an artist named Jiang. It is exceptionally captivating. Fortunately, the wine lives up to the packaging. The labels for this winery are always magnificent: owners Ken and Jennifer Soni admire fine art and aspire to make wine that matches their ardor for perfection. He’s a dentist and she’s, well, a winemaker. Their tasting room in Paso Robles is a converted bank: something of an oddity in Paso Robles, but let’s face it, how many banks fold and leave you their beautiful wooden counter complete with mirrors? It has a very chic feel that complements their wine very well.

The nose on this wine is incredibly honey-rich, with aromas of baked Bosc pears and butterscotch. There is a faint hint of botrytis. On the palate, this could easily be a baked pear and walnut crisp or an almond and apricot tart. It’s dessert-like, for sure, but not sweet. The ripe pineapple finish is very satisfying: in fact, everything about this wine is big and robust. Not a slender white girl, this. It’s not Audrey Hepburn or Faith Hill. No, it’s more like Bette Midler or Aretha. This wine is built like the woman on the label: gorgeous, curvy, and so well-endowed that she hasn’t seen her feet in years.

You won’t need to see your feet with this one – you only need to see your glass. And add a slice of apricot stilton with a lovely crisp flatbread, and you’ll be all set.

(Alc: 13.5%, Retail: $20)

Reviewed February 15, 2007 by Laura Ness.