Mitchell Katz Winery

Unlike many other winemakers in Livermore who could be classified as “hobbyists,” Mitchell Katz takes his craft seriously. But he also likes to have a little fun, which he clearly did with this wine. There’s lots to love about the Fat Boy: the aromas, the flavors, the finish, the name. The aromas are brimming with dense currant and cherries, and the flavors are delightfully black raspberry, cassis and chocolate mint, with lovely salami notes. The finish flourishes with nutmeg-dusted chocolate. Very well balanced and anchored by delightful acidity (yes, acidity from Livermore!!), this Cabernet from the McGrail Ranch is easy to drink, easy to appreciate and easy to remember. In this case, Fat is good.

Winemaker Mitch Katz is one of those winemakers with a “day job.” He installs HVAC systems at local hospitals. One of his proudest accomplishments was helping to build the Children’s Hospital at Stanford. In college, he thought he wanted to be a football player, but he confesses, “I was big enough, but not fast enough.” So he got into construction. A gregarious, forthright and no bullshit kinda guy, he shrinks not from telling it like it is. Which means he can be pretty blunt about his opinion of Livermore wine: “We all need to do a better job, including me. We’re having some great success, and we just all need to work harder.” It’s hard to imagine anyone working harder than Mitch: he’s got two active sons in high school and all the sports that go along with them.

Reviewed September 5, 2007 by Laura Ness.