Jekel Vineyards

There’s been an explosion of interest recently in Riesling, with sales up a whopping 25 percent last year. While that increase was on a relatively small base, there’s no question that consumers are taking a new look at this long-neglected grape variety. California has had mixed success with Riesling, which has often been planted in the wrong spots.

But Jekel, which is owned by Brown-Forman Corp. (Fetzer’s parent company), has a long history with the grape in Monterey, where the cool climate provides a good home for Riesling. In the past, this wine sometimes has been on the sweet side, but the 2007 is just off-dry (about 1 percent residual sugar), and any sweetness is balanced by the wine’s racy acidity.

This Riesling also displays flavors of lime, lime blossom and just a touch of tropical fruit (think mango). There’s also a floral component, perhaps because winemaker Charlie Gilmore has blended a smidgen of Muscat with the Riesling. All in all, this Riesling - which is reasonably priced at $12 - is very refreshing and would make a delicious aperitif or a lively companion for spicy Asian food.

Reviewed April 30, 2008 by Laurie Daniel.