Thomas Fogarty Winery

Step away from the bar…and nobody gets hurt. Even the name seems to warn you that this is something to be feared. This is a serious, bracingly intense Merlot, in all the right ways. The Razorback Vineyard is located on the very cool climate Thomas Fogarty estate, just off Skyline Boulevard, not far from the invigoratingly frigid waters of the Pacific Ocean. Those chilly, fog-laden breezes conspire to nullify any intrepid sunshine that manages to peer through the clouds that constantly hug these steep hillsides. Although perched high above and overlooking the entire Santa Clara Valley, these vines seem oblivious to the view. Instead, they seem intent on getting their fruit as close to ripe as possible, despite the daunting climate.

In 2003, this Merlot hit the bullseye of ripeness, and the result is a powerful, well-muscled cat, stalking its prey with a hint of indifference. The irresistible aromas entice you like a cup of hot cocoa on a snowy winter morning. Tantalized by the promise of gorgeous cherries, peppermint and chocolate, your palate will reel with the enormous flavours of chocolate mint, spicy cherry tart, hints of tar, leather and basil. Now this is Bordeaux, right bank stuff, at its finest. If you like a big, slightly tannic Pomerol, you’ll go for this. Lay it down for a couple of years and you’ll be well-rewarded.

Reviewed February 20, 2008 by Laura Ness.