Jamesport Vineyards

In simple terms, malolactic fermentation turns the acid that makes green apples tart and turns it into the acid found in milk - resulting in a softer, rounder mouthfeel and different flavors and aromas.

Even if you don't know about ML-as wine geeks like to call malo-lactic fermentation-you've probably smelled it in your average glass of Chardonnay. Especially if it's from California..For many years, the round, fuller body of full ML dominated the American Chardonnay scene. Luckily, people are getting sick of those unbalanced, flabby wines and local winemakers are respondly-happily.

Les Howard of Jamesport Vineyards is one such winemaker. His new Jamesport Vineyards 2005 Reserve Chardonnay shows how judicious use of oak and ML can lead to a combination of rich flavors and food-friendly acidity. In fact, he says, "I have never liked over-oaked Chardonnay and I believe Long Island Chardonnay should never go through complete malolactic fermentation. It is better with some ML and not too flat or buttery."

For this wine 21 percent was fermented in stainless steel and the rest in oak. A medium golden color, the aromas are lightly fruity and are dominated by toasted marshmallows and spice with a little pear and lemon peel in the background. Full bodied - but not heavy - the flavors are complex and layered - citrus, pear, vanilla, butterscotch and burnt sugar mingle nicely. But, by keeping ML from running to completely, Howard has preserved nice acidity on the finish to balance a creamy mid-palate. Think of this wine as slightly California in style, but better because it shows none of the flabbiness and overwhelming butter character.

Reviewed August 23, 2007 by Lenn Thompson.