Esterlina Vineyards

The smallest appellation in North America, the Cole Ranch AVA, produces stunning Rieslings and noteworthy Pinot Noirs for its owners, Esterlina Vineyards and Winery. Esterlina’s Rieslings have been served at the White House, although it’s a shame George didn’t have the pleasure: he should maybe learn to spit.

For those of us who appreciate Riesling, especially the dry ones, this is a delight. In the glass, this wine has presence: it looks like it has texture. The aromas are of multiple citrus fruits, with Meyer lemon, key lime, pineapple and a hint of flint. There’s a nice spark of petrol which I so love in Riesling. Even a bit of jasmine lurks in the background. One sip and this wine wakes up all the tastebuds. The contrasts going on here are amazing. Big acidity, typical of the Cole Ranch vineyard, hits you foresquare, announcing that this is a Riesling that is anything but sweet. Save that for the off-dry sister. Then the crisp green apple and D’anjou pear flavors sweep over your tongue, leaving a tingly sensation. As promised, the texture is wonderful here: like sandwashed silk, it has big minerality and nice nutty notes on the finish.

This wine is all about food, and it isn’t shy about attacking something rich and creamy. The pairing suggestions include chicken alfredo, or shrimp in a garlic cream. I might add that it would also be fabulous with spicy salads, like braised pear with apricot brandy and blue cheese over arugula. This may become one of your favorite food wines, although with only 212 cases produced, you might want to score some pretty quickly.

(Alc: 13.8%, Retail: $18)

Reviewed March 23, 2007 by Laura Ness.