Cinnabar Vineyard and Winery

Winemaker George Troquato of Cinnabar says that in his opinion, it is way harder to make good Cabernet in the Santa Cruz Mountains than it is to make good Pinot Noir. He has pretty much made it his life’s quest to make fine Cab from these mountains, and he goes to every length possible to make it happen. I’d say he’s on to something here.

This 2003 Cab is simply fabulous: it has everything you want in a big, well-made Cab, and it’s eminently drinkable right now. From the alluring coffee, cedar, forest floor and berry aromas, you know it’s Cabernet that got ripe. Nothing vegetal here. The flavors are juicy and lush, predominated by blackberries, plums, and baking spice, with a hint of black olives. The mouthfeel is wonderfully round and full, and the finish is fantastic with coffee and allspice. This wine is like a leopard: sleek, muscular, powerful but very smoothly and quietly elegant. George really dialed it in on this one. My notebook has a big ‘A’ by this entry, and ends with “amazingly drinkable, gorgeous. FABULOUS!” Doesn’t get much better than that. And yet, I’ve had his barrel samples of upcoming vintages and I can safely say that if you like Cab, you’ll love this one now and you’ll have something to look forward to as those sibling wines come of age.

(Alc: 14.1%, Retail: $42)

Reviewed February 9, 2007 by Laura Ness.