Inniskillin Wines

Inniskillin winery in Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula region started the quality wine revolution in Canada when Donald Ziraldo and Karl Kaiser applied for a boutique winery license in 1974. The industry at the time was dominated by large companies. Donald and Karl introduced well-made varietal wines and, later, single-vineyard labels. When the 1989 Inniskillin Vidal Icewine won a gold medal at Vinexpo in 1991, Canada was finally recognized as a cool-climate wine-producing country, turning the corner after a century of making inferior wines.

Last month Donald Ziraldo resigned as president of the winery, vacating a position he held since founding the winery with Karl Kaiser, who also just retired. Constellation Brands purchased the winery when it bought Vincor in a $1.3 billion deal last year.

Only naturally frozen grapes are allowed in the production of icewine. The grapes are harvested, and pressed, while frozen, yielding an intensely flavored and concentrated juice.

Bright golden amber yellow and very viscous, this wine initially gives off notes of smoke and mineral, and then a cornucopia of guava, peach, lychee, Asian Five Spice, burnt almond, apple strudel, caramel, and toffee. It is sweet, round, and creamy with a firm backbone of acidity and a bright, tingling, mouthwatering finish.

Reviewed January 9, 2007 by Catherine Fallis.