Hunter Hill Vineyard & Winery
2003 Merlot, Estate(Santa Cruz Mountains)
Cool climate Merlot is a thing to be reckoned with. It’s not suitable for introducing white wine-only neophytes to red, as are many California Merlots. What most people think of as Merlot is dummed down super-sweet, soft, flabby swill. It’s like red wine with training wheels. That’s because so much of it is grown where it is warm, sunny and flat. So you get a wine that accurately reflects its terroir.
Not so with true-to-its-Bordeaux-roots Merlot. Much of the Merlot grown and made in the Santa Cruz Mountains has many of the characteristics of that classic French Right Bank stuff: it’s big, thick, powerful and sometimes a bit grippy in the tannin department. It makes your mouth work overtime.
This one from Hunter Hill falls into that category. Like many Merlots I’ve had from the Santa Cruz Mountains, this baby can arm-wrestle a Cabernet to the table in seconds flat. One whiff of the peppery nose and you know there is something powerful lying in wait. In fact, it’s an almost chile pepper nose. On the palate, it’s dried cherries, a hint of menthol and briary fruits. You can really taste the pure New Mexico Red Hatch chile core and a bit of Arbol as well. Funny, but I even got a hint of provolone cheese, and a dash of hazelnut on the finish. This one you’d do well to air out for about an hour before drinking. It’s best served with something spicy, perhaps a red chile of venison or beef, or chicken enchiladas.
(Alc: 13.5%, Retail: $20)
Reviewed December 11, 2006 by Laura Ness.
Other Awards & Accolades
Bronze Award -- Santa Cruz Mountain Winegrowers Competition 2006
Other reviewed wines from Hunter Hill Vineyard & Winery
Hunter Hill Vineyard & Winery 2004 Pinot Noir, Hellenthal Vineyard (Sonoma Coast)Laura Ness 11/30/2006 |
The Wine
Winery: Hunter Hill Vineyard & Winery |
The ReviewerA wine writer and wine judge for major publications and competitions around the country, Laura Ness likens wine to the experience of music. She is always looking for that ubiquitous marriage of rhythm, melody, and flawless execution. What is good music? You know it when you get lost in it. What is good wine? It is music in your mouth. |