Burford and Brown Wines

Barbera used to be the poster child for wines euphemistically described as ‘rustic.’ They’ve come a long way, baby and a fine example is the Burford and Brown 2005 Barbera sourced from its Wildwood Vineyard near Fiddletown in Amador County. This is a Barbera with finesse, retaining the earthiness that is classically associated with the variety, yet lending a much lighter touch. However this wine retains all the richness and structure you want to see in a wine that pairs so well with robust foods.

Winemaker Peter Burford says “all of my wines have structure but are quaffable. They are not too heavy on the palate.” He has avoided what he calls the “angularity that is so often present in Barbera,” rounding out the rich blackberry and spiced black cherry notes with a little bit of mocha on the palate.

Burford is using fruit grown at 4,000-feet elevation. He believes Amador’s elevation renders it one of the best regions in which to grow Barbera. The variety is “inherently acidic’ in the lower regions of California, says Burford, but at the higher elevation “it gives the fruit more balance as far as sugars and acids, and it ripens better. It has no over-ripe characteristics,” Burford explains.

This wine is a good match with earthy winter fare such as spaghetti Bolognese, Osso Buco or a hearty red sauce with meatballs and pasta.

Reviewed March 28, 2008 by Jean Deitz Sexton.